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Carmichael Times

Olive Oil Expert Shares Skills at Library Tasting

Nov 06, 2015 12:00AM ● By Story and photos by Susan Maxwell Skinner

Born in Argentina and raised in California, Maria Farr has good reason to bless an age-old staple that oils the wheels of Latino kitchens.

“Most Argentinians are of Italian origin,” said the Carmichael resident. “My mami had a huge can of Italian olive oil under her sink. She used it in everything she cooked. “As a teenager in California, I wanted our food to taste more American. But mami even cooked our French fries in olive oil. Our mashed potatoes tasted of oil and garlic.”

No surprise, Farr grew up with good health, hair, and skin. “Mami gave my hair oil treatments,” she recalls. “Olives produce excellent, healthy oil. If I get it on my hands when cooking, I don’t wash it off, I rub it in. It’s too good to waste. She taught me that.”

Mami also bequeathed her only child a second career. After 20 years of teaching Spanish at Sacramento Waldorf School (Fair Oaks), Farr is now exploring more inherited skills. Her rapport with olive oil has made her one of a very few sensory experts recognized by the international olive oil industry.

Farr will share her knowledge at a free tasting event in Carmichael Library on November 10th. Her program introduces participants to the good, the great, and the ugly of oil production.

“Certain qualities can only be detected by human taste,” she explains, “whether it’s virgin, extra virgin or not fit for human consumption. The more virgin (pure) your oil, the more of its heathy qualities you’ll ingest. What skill I have was developed by many years of tasting and training,” she says.

Honed by UC Davis study, her sensory talent led to a seat on a panel that helps oil producers. The panelist has since sniffed, sipped, swirled (and occasionally spat) hundreds of oils.

Samples are submitted from olive farms all over the world. Panel protocol requires that sensors are isolated with small cups of oil, water, and sliced apples (for cleansing palates).

“Every taster has their own style,” Farr observes. “Some swallow, some spit. Our observations are tallied. We also give descriptors—like buttery, nutty or peppery—that producers can use on labels.” These tests also identify problems with harvesting, milling, storage, and indicate if improvements are needed.

UC Davis has since discontinued this service but the experts’ mission continues. Farr and panelist friends now work for Applied Sensory, a Fairfield consulting company that tests wines, olive oils, and beer.

“The law requires growers and millers’ products to be tested by a lab and a sensory panel,” she explains. “We’re one of only seven panels recognized by the American Oil Chemists’ Society. We’re paid a stipend but it’s fun; we feel that we’re also benefitting consumers. People should eat what’s good for them.”

Some professional tasters cosset palates by avoiding alcohol she confides. “I don’t eat the morning of a tasting. I have tea, nothing else. I love the smell and taste of olive oil. I don’t want to overwhelm it.”

Love for the humble olive extends to cookery. Farr has established a blog to share recipes and knowledge. “My mother cooked from scratch; that’s what I do, too,” she says. “I can’t just open a box and call it dinner. Like mami, I use olive oil in everything—cakes, breads, I even give it to my dog for his coat. I love exploring new recipes. Friends are my guinea pigs. When they ask for a recipe, I know I’ve succeeded.”

Maria Farr’s Carmichael Library program begins 6 p.m. on Tuesday, Nov. 10th. Registration is required via www.saclibrary.org. The library address is 5605 Marconi Avenue.

Future oil tasting programs are planned for Eskaton (Roseville) on November 19th; Eskaton Monroe Lodge (Freeport Boulevard) on December 11th; and Eskaton (Carmichael) on February 4th, 2016.

You can access Maria Farr’s culinary blog at www.therenaissancekitchen.com.